Goodbye, Albania – Hello Bosnia & Herzegovina

We left Sarandë to return to Northern Albania and spent our last night in Albania, at probably one of the best places we had stayed while travelling due to the wonderful hospitality and great value for money, €50 including breakfast. We spent the night in the family-run Lahuta e Vjeter Agroturizem. We were welcomed by the son, Velo who runs the hotel while his mum runs the restaurant and his dad the small winery. Everyone was so lovely and kind. We had dinner in the restaurant and again, as is traditional, there is a small exterior building where they keep their woodfires for cooking.

We had a set starter plate and lamb sač (found in most of the Balkans and Turkey) which is cooked in the domed pan over the fire. Included in the starter plate was a traditional Albanian/Kosovo dish called fli or flia which is layered crepes with cream and butter, again cooked over the open wood fire. The waiter took us out to see how it was all cooked. Everything was delicious and washed down with some good red wine. The next morning the mum served us breakfast and kept giving us seconds. When we checked out and said our goodbyes and thanks the mum then gave us a bottle of wine.

The lamb sač in the domed pan and the fli on the right

We had originally planned on driving the next day into Bosnia and staying in Trebinje which is located right down in the southern corner however there has been very severe flooding through central Bosnia and the highway between Mostar and Sarajevo (the way we had hoped to drive) was washed away and badly damaged as was the railway line. So we changed and decided to return the same way we had come when we first arrived in Montenegro 2 months ago. Our second night we spent in a small lakeside village of Pluzine in northern Montenegro in a very cool guesthouse known for its restaurant before making our way to Sarajevo the next day.

Once again we were driving on one of the worst roads we had experienced. This section from the border to Foca the M18 – 25 km takes almost an hour. This time was not too bad as not much traffic. When we drove through in August it was crazy stressful due to lots of traffic – buses, cars, cows.

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